Plain Weave:

Plain weave is the most basic pattern.  The weft moves in and out of the warp.  The next weft is then moved out and in,  in the opposite pattern.

Warp and weft are intertwined with the help of a loom, which aids in controlling tension.  The particular pattern shown here is the basic foundation for all weaving.  A weaver can, however, manipulate the warp ends or the weft ends, or both, to create different patterns or to use different techniques.

In plain weave, the fabric is flat.  No tufts or knots are added.

In most plain weave, the warp and weft are of equal proportions.  This balances the weave and both are equally visible.

If the weaver uses a thin warp and a thick weft, the warp will show in the finished fabric.  This is called a warp-faced weaving. 

If the weaver uses a thick warp and a thin weft, the weft will show in the finished product.  This is called a weft-faced weaving.  Kilims are usually weft-faced.

Kilim Weave:

Kilim weave is basically a plain weave.  It is flat with no tufts or pile.  Because wefts of different colors are placed between the warp threads, however, this necessitates ways to join the weft threads together to create a sturdy fabric.

 In slit kilims, the different colored wefts are not joined, thus creating a hole.  The end of the color is wrapped around the warp where it ends.  The next color is then wrapped around the next warp.  By alternating where these colors end and begin, not only is the pattern of the kilim created, but the fabric is also given stability.  Often a kilim woven in the slit technique will contain stripes of a solid color to provide more stability.              

   Click on the above pictures to enlarge.

Pile Weave:

The foundation of a pile carpet is a plain weave.  The warp is stretched between two points and held under tension.  A weft is woven in and out through the warp.  A second weft is then woven out and in, in the opposite pattern.  Then the warp threads are used as a foundation on which to tie knots of short pieces of yarn.  The knots are tied in rows all along the wefts.  After the row of knots is tied all the way across, another weft is woven through the warp threads.  The interaction between warp and weft forms a mesh which securely holds the knots in place.  It enables the weaver to create a sturdy foundation of plain weave with a thick pile. 

There are two  main kinds of knots:

The  particular knot the weaver uses is usually determined by where she learned to weave.  In Iran weavers in some areas use the asymmetric or Persian knot.  In other areas, the weavers may be of Turkish descent and, therefore, would use the symmetric or Turkish knot. 

With such a simple structure and process, countless variations are possible.  Different weaving areas in Iran combine the basic element and foundation in different ways.  In some areas the weavers pass only one weft between rows of knots- single weft rugs.  In the Bijar area, weavers use a thin weft, then a row of knots, then a thick weft, then a row of knots.  This has the effect of ribbing the basic foundation because rows with thin wefts in them are forced above the rows with thick wefts.  It produces a thick, durable and heavy rug which weighs twice as much as a carpet woven with wefts of equal thickness.

Collectors and experts are often able to tell how old a carpet is and where it is from by the number of wefts between rows of knots and so forth.  The emphasis on structure revolves around using it to determine the area where a piece originated and this affects value. 

Soumak Warp Wrapping Technique-

Now that you know what a warp is, this little visual should make better sense.  Many beautiful pieces are made using this technique which is a combination of weaving and embroidery. 

    Click on the picture to enlarge.