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Tribal Sorting and Spinning-
Before the weaving of a carpet can begin, there are several processes which
must be completed to turn the wool into yarn. The first step starts with a
sheep growing
wool. The sheep must then be shorn. The natural coat of a sheep is
longer in some places than in others, and is softer in some areas on the body
than in others. The longer hairs are stronger when spun together than the
shorter pieces. So the wool is sorted so it can be spun into yarn of
different qualities for different uses. The shortest hairs are often used
in felt because felt can be made without any spinning.
After shearing, the wool is usually sorted by hand into small bunches.
Besides different qualities of wool, it is possible to create many different colors and shades of yarn just by
combining the natural colors of sheep (black, white, browns, etc.). The
natural colors are mixed at the time of sorting, and then later spun
together.
When
 the
wool is sorted, the spinning can begin. Nomad women carry a spindle and a
hunk of wool
with them wherever they go- whether out tending the sheep or waiting for the pot
to boil. Little girls learn to spin wool with a drop spindle from an early
age. To help out around the house, the little girls often spin while
tending the sheep. Because it takes such a long time to spin enough yarn
for a carpet, nomad women use the summer for spinning, and then often focus on
weaving the yarn into a carpet or kilim during the winter. Thus, spinning
of the wool can continue while walking on the spring and fall migrations, and in
the summer while tending the flocks.
Because tribal carpets are usually woven by
nomads or in the traditions of
tribes associated with animal husbandry, they usually contain wool or goat hair
or both. Though tribal weavers sometimes trade for cotton to use for warp,
one of the signs of a truly tribal carpet is that it is the warp, weft and pile
are all wool or goat hair. An even more telltale sign of a truly nomadic
piece is evidence of handspun wool in the warp, weft or pile. Hand spun
wool has a special look to it. It's often not a uniform thickness and has
a spin on it that isn't as tight as machine spun wool.
Nomad women today still use the drop spindle everywhere they go. Drop
spindles are portable and allow a woman to waste no time at all. Whether
walking, cooking or taking care of the children, that spindle is
spinning. Never underestimate the power of a drop spindle- with the mere
flick of a wrist a soft, fluffy substance can be turned into a strong twine, a
rope, a cord, a gag. The sheep tremble before spinner. The goats pay
attention. The donkeys follow without being tethered. The visible
yarn becomes twined together with an invisible power. I, like most
children, was in awe of my mother while growing up. I can only imagine
what it
must be like to have a mother who, wielding this tool, could bind a
child hand, foot and mouth in mere seconds.
Here, some hand spun wool is found peeping out from the handle of a tribal bag.
Village Sorting and Spinning-
Life in
the village is more mechanized than out in the tribal areas.
After the sheep are shorn, the wool is brought into the village to
be sorted by machine. Collection points are used
 to
gather the wool, sort it, and then ready it for spinning.
In the village, many women used to use the faster method of spinning with a
spinning wheel. Today, the wool is often sorted and then sent to the city
to be spun using machines.
City Sorting and Spinning-
Wool for city weaving is usually gathered from the villages, through village
collection points like pictured above. After sorting, the wool is then
spun by machine which give is a very even, uniform texture. After sorting
and spinning, the yarn is then ready for dyeing.
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